Is This One Of Europe's Best Surf Shops?

As you approach the historic center of Ericeira, Portugal, the narrow cobbled streets and alleys weave through a town far older than the surf culture that has come to define it today. In some ways it reminds me of home in Encinitas, in others, it stands truly unique to anything we have in California. At the Wavegliders Surf Shop, a vibe pervades that is beyond anything beholden to any one country or place, it is the spirit of an international tribe passionate about, well, wave gliding.

Thanks to friendships forged at Gliding Barnacles, the shop staff played host to our crew consisting of the creative duo that is TJ Thran, founder of CVRRENT, and Emma Limburg, who both work magic behind the lenses of their cameras, surfboard shaper, Josh Peterson, of Peterson Surf Craft, and Julia Cataldo, of Peppy Collective, clothing designer and vintage collector.

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We met up for a surf at a quiet spot outside of town. From the cliff, the waves looked fun, playful even. Down on the beach, I could see that the head-high waves rose up quickly and broke with force eventually slamming into the giant cliffs with a thunderous crash. The ocean was glassy, reflecting the bright sunlight yet still showing off it's unique green-blue color distinctly different from the Pacific hues back home. The cold water, lack of crowd, and beautiful views made for a baptism-like experience that left us each a full of gratitude for this life that connects us with like-minded seekers across the world. 

Aprés-surf it was back into town where we hung at Wavegliders and learned more about the waves and history of the town. Manager and Ericeira native, João Pereira says, “If you look back at the historical photos from the area, you can see just how much it is has changed over the years. When I was a child it was all fields surrounding the town, now we have many more people and growth.”

For surf shops, schools, hotels, and cafes, the growth enables business and a significant relevance in the international surf scene. For user-friendly waves, well, that means there's quite the crowd. The crown jewel being Ribeira das Ihlas, a right-hand reef break just north of town that plays host to a Challenger Series event in the fall. I found the wave to be not unlike Swami’s in Encinitas—only with more consistent punch thanks to full exposure to North Atlantic swells that bring in steady surf throughout the year. 

While Portugal certainly resembles California in many ways, the strength of the sea, and temperature of the water, makes that comparison particular to the conditions found in Northern California. Unlike anything you would find in California though, adjacent to the beach in Riberia, there is a newly-built bar and restaurant that looks far more like something you would find in a hip neighborhood of LA, than you would find near any surf break. 

Downstairs at Wavegliders there is an additional space for used surfboards and a lounge filled with an impressive collection of old Surfer Magazines with a rotating gallery of local art adorning the walls. In the wintertime they host movie nights to gather the tribe despite the cold, long evenings, and keep the proverbial fire alive. Yes, of course, they surf as much as they can, but wintertime blues can be a real thing especially when going out to surf feels more like a survival mission than a joyful pastime. 

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Upstairs, the cozy space is well-curated with gear from brands like Db Journey, Carhartt WIP, Patagonia, Roark, and a selection of a new brand from the Canary Islands that is quickly turning heads and gaining fans, Latitud Fuego. Next to the cash register is an espresso machine, in part for customers who need a little pick me up—keeping with the European tradition that coffee is best served as a potent shot—in part serving as an inspiration station for the staff and friends to help fuel whatever adventure or creative endeavor they’ll embark on next. 

On the window display, a hand-written sign reads, “Be financially irresponsible, buy a new surfboard!”

Amen.

Related: “Love Is Everywhere”: The Living Art of Gliding Barnacles